St Emillion Wine Tour, Bordeaux

The second day in Bordeaux, Bern and I decided to go on a wine tour to St Emilion, a medieval city about 40 mins drive away. It is easy to book one of these tours from the Tourist Information Centre. But be warned, do not go between 12-1pm. They are close for lunch! I love their work ethic... I should have been born French.

The above grapes are Merlot which are almost ripe for the picking. We started the tour by going to Planet Bordeaux, which is a wine museum. I learnt so much from this place, so it is definitely worth going if you do not know much about wine,  like me. Here I learned about Le terroirs- the factors required to make quality wine. This includes the climate, the soil and the wine maker as the artisan. If these three are perfect, then you will have quality wine. Bordeaux is suppose to have the right climate and soil for grape vines and different regions have different soil types for different grapes. St Emillion grows mainly Merlot, while Medoc grows mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. The main grapes grown in Bordeaux are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (red grapes) and Sauvignon, Semillon and Muscadelle (white grapes).

It is also at Planet Bordeaux that I learn about wine classifications- such as the difference between a Bordeaux and Bordeaux premium. The premium is more expensive due to less yield per hectarlitre.

We also learned how wines are given labels such as grand cru or grand cru classe (classe is the most expensive- and it is judged by a wine panel and it is really hard to achieve and takes a vineyard many many years before it is awarded this lable). The other thing I learned was about appellations. Therefore some wines are only allowed to be called a certain name if it is from that area. I learned that Sauternes are made from white grapes infected by botrytis (a type of fungus) which gives the wine a  specific taste. Australia's Brown Brother's Noble One is also made by grapes infected by botrytis but cannot be called a Sauternes. Anyhow, these are mainly terminologies. If it taste good, that is all that matters.

Here at Planet Bordeaux, and later at Chateau Cantenac, I learn that wine making is such a long and arduous process. So many things can affect the outcome. I mentioned the le terroirs before. If the weather for that particular year was dry, then the grapes are less juicy. The role of the winemaker is also significant. As Bordeaux wines are mostly blended, the winemaker uses their skill to come up with the perfect blend. Some wines are kept in steel tank and others in oak barrels (and even the barrels have different grades and variety that will significantly contribute to the outcome of the wine as the barrel impart flavour to the wine). There are so many factors that contribute to the outcome. Kinda like baking and cooking I guess- but much more complicated.

The fermentation process of the grapes are in two fold. First, the fermentation for the first two weeks are due to the natural yeast found in grapes. Then, the free flowing juice is drained and re-tanked for malolactic fermentation. The residue is then pressed. The pressed juice is later added (at the wine makers' digression) to the free flowing juice. After the second fermentation, the wine is left in steel tanks or oak barrels to age. Throughout the aging months, samples from different barrels and tanks are sent to laboratories for analysis.  It is then up to the winemaker how he would blend his wine. Oh ya, all the tanks are temperature controlled and the oaks are kept in climate controlled storage areas.

Sorry if all that was a bit technical. If I did not write that down, I will definitely soon forget it. I am sure Bern (or GQ) will make a few corrections. Overall though, it was very educational.

St Emillion itself was a picturesque medieval town. These photos do not really do the place justice. Unfortunately, I started feeling ill here, with muscle aches and pains and feeling nauseated. What a pain! Luckily the restaurant that we went, Le Bouchon, was not very good. I was too sick to complain, but Bern actually did! It takes alot for Bern not to like a meal. My dessert of chocolate cake was awful. It tasted bland, was hard as a rock and you could see the hardened bits of lard/butter. Bern told the waiter that it was not fit to be served. Good on you honey! I was really too sick to complain... and they had the nerve to dress it up with a bit of cream and custard. Making it look pretty doesn't alter the taste! Our first disappointing meal in France! I was almost glad that I was ill...

                              

More views of St Emillion

Different types of grape vines for sale

The vineyard at Chateau Cantenac

Bern took this photo on his morning run in Bordeaux.....

Bordeaux, France

This is turning into a travel blog lately rather than a cooking blog hasn't it? I apologise, but these last two weeks have been really full on. First of all, I started a nannying job that I was not expecting. Then, we had visitors arriving from Melbourne just as we got back to London from Bordeaux. We knew they were coming, so that wasn't a surprise. But I was sick on the last day in Bordeaux which was a pain, as I could barely enjoy the wine tour, but most importantly, enjoy any of the food! In fact, I was feeling so nauseated that I hardly ate that day. Nevertheless, we still enjoyed ourselves as much as we could.

Bordeaux is a beautiful region southwest of France. The entire city is almost wholely UNESCO listed, and is world famous for its wine. This is evident when we landed at the airport as grape vines replaced flower beds. It also did not take me long to find a patisserie and most importantly, macaroons! Bern had a baguette (as usual).

It was a great feeling to be back in France.

The city also has a tram network which was a great way to get around. But if your hotel is in the city, then it is also very easy to get around on foot as most places were walking distance. 

The above are called canelés and are a specialty of Bordeaux that dates back to the 18th century. A cake batter that is flavoured with rum and vanilla is poured into copper tins and baked at a high temperature to get a caramelised outer skin, leaving the center moist and a little chewy. This was the first time that I've had them, and I thought it was a bit too sweet. I still prefer macaroons, which are insanely sweet too, but somehow just taste better because of its part chewy part crunchy texture. And in my opinion, better looking.

Having insider information is helpful when it comes to choosing a place to dine. Usually, we rely on the hotel reception but this time our informant came in a form of a certain Melbourne friend who lived in Bordeaux for a year (the official reason was for work, but I wondered if his penchant for wine had anything to do with it. Nothing wrong mixing pleasure with work I might add). Le Gabriel, with a Michelin hat was the recommended place which is conveniently located in the city along the Garonne river. The restaurant section was fully booked for the weekend, but we managed to secure a booking for their bistro. And even with such a good reputation, it was very reasonably priced. (3 courses for 28 Euro per head).

A bottle of Grand Cru Classe was quickly selected  to kick off the meal.

Oysters from the coastal areas of Bordeaux

Foie gras pate with mango jelly, a nutty jam and toast. This was seriously good.

My tomato mousse as entree

As usual, Bern had a medium rare steak with roast vegies.

My poached salmon with a seafood veloute was one of the best seafood main course I have ever tasted.

My chocolate mousse dessert covered in dehydrated raspberry powder. Delish! Especially with a crisp glass of Sauternes.

Bern's berry-misu! A twist on the Italian tiramisu.

This was definitely one of the most memorable meals we have had in a while. I wish sometimes these memories could be bottled in a jar and reopened when required. And it is not always meals from fancy restaurants that make it memorable. Sometimes, even simple meals cooked at home shared with loved ones leave a lasting impression. Food becomes a medium that brings poeple together, especially when those that get together for a meal are also passionate about food.

Bordeaux and the Gironne river on the walk back to the hotel.

P/s: This blog is for GQ and Lyndia, I hope it brings you lots of good memories!

Wild Mushroom Fettucine

Those that have a Mac (especially you GQ), could you please let me know if my posts are a little wonky? I started a new job as a nanny and I logged onto my blog using the Mac at my employers and noted that all the photos were really out of place. So I adjusted the template only to come home and find the blog looking wonky on my normal HP computer. I hope that I've fixed the problem and no more side by side photos in the future.

Anyway, we were so inspired by our Italian trip that we decided to try and recreate some of the magic at home. So off to the Borough market we went, and bought avariety of wild mushrooms.

The result was not too bad, but no way close to what we had.

Also, wild mushrooms are pretty robust, so make sure you cook it for a little longer than your usual mushrooms that seem to wilt the instant they hit the pan.

Wild Mushroom Fettucine recipe

200g fresh fettucine
150g assorted mushroom, cleaned and sliced
2 clove garlic minced
4-5 slices dried porcini mushroom, soaked in a little hot water (reserve liquid)
knob of butter
olive oil
1/2 cup white wine
handful chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste

Cook pasta to instructions. If it is freshly made, it only takes 3 minutes. Drain the pasta in a colander.
In a hot pan, add a few tablespoon olive oil and butter. Add the garlic and the mushrooms. Cook mushroom to wilt. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and reserved liquid. Add the herbs and toss in the pasta. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Vatican City, Italy

The Vatican City in Rome was on the itinerary for the second day. We were glad we joined a tour as the queue would have been a three hour long wait. I have never seen such a long queue before. The Pope and 800 other clergymen resides at the Vatican City, and they even have their own separate passports.

Oh, the other thing good about Rome was that you could get fresh and cold spring water at almost every corner of the city. I think this is remnant of the aqueducts built by the Romans. Just make sure you have an empty water bottle to refill. This water fountain was in the Vatican city itself.

This is a colossal head of Emperor Augustus measuring 2 metres high. It was found in the Roman forum but now lives in the courtyard of Pigna in the Vatican City.

This is the statue of Laocoon and his sons, apparently carved from one piece of marble. It depicts Laocoon, a figure in Greek and Roman mythology, and his sons being attacked by serpents sent by the goddess Athena after Laocoon tried to expose the ruse of the Trojan horse by striking it with a spear. It is believed to have been made in 160 to 20 BC. This is a monumental sculpture that even the ignorants (like me) can appreciate. The attention to detail is amazing- you could even see veins on the upper arm!

The Vatican Museum is vast. It has many chambers containing sculptures and wares from ancient times. But thing I like most were the paintings, especially on the walls and ceilings. Below is a picture of one of the many ceilings in the Vatican Museum. At first, I thought it was actually 3 dimension, with embossings. But the painting on the ceiling is actually just 2-D, but with shadows painted to give a 3-D illusion. The pastel colours were also refreshing- as most ceilings and walls tend to be painted in really bright, golden and gawdy colours.

The last destination of the tour was the Sistine Chapel. The Chapel is mainly famous for the work of Michaelangelo. Michaelangelo was commissioned by Pope Julius II to paint 1200 square feet of the ceiling in the 15th century.  To my surprise, the chapel is actually quite small. So you have to squeeze into the space with lots of other tourists. They also did not allow any photos, which was a shame. But we managed to squeeze in a few... hehe, although not in clear focus.

The creation of Adam depicted by Michaelangelo. He depicts God giving life to Adam.

The Judgement Day painting on the wall of the Sistine Chapel.

The tour ended outside St Peter's Basilica.

St Peter's Square

And then a quick stop for lunch, and yet again a very ordinary meal (and it was pricey too).  Salad of anchovies and cheese (left). Chicken and capsicum casserole.

A very ordinary pizza- the base was hard and thick.

At this stage, we felt a bit of despair. Are we going to have at least a decent meal in Rome? Being the last day of the trip, we decided that we are going to try and find a decent restaurant tonight, no matter what.

More site-seeing for the rest of the day. This is the Pantheon, half covered with scaffolding. I think I mentioned that many monuments that we have visited during this trip were having some restorative work done. Just our luck...

Considering this was built in about 126 AD, it has stood the test of time compared to the other ancient places in Rome. It was built initially to worship the Roman gods, but since the 7th century, it has been used by the Roman Catholics as a church and dedicated to St. Mary and the martyrs.

The Pantheon Dome from inside the church

And finally, saving the best for last, the Trevi fountain. Definitely more impressive in person than in a picture.

After a long and hot day, it was nice to have a relaxing evening by having a good meal. So we headed to the Trastevere, for the second time, to scout for a better place for dinner. We spent a good half hour to forty five minutes scrutinizing menus before deciding on Ristorante da Bruno alla Lungaretta. Their menu looked as though someone had put more of an effort into rather than just the usual tourist fare of pizzas and pastas.

Thank goodness this meal turned out to be really good. It cost a bit more, but definitely well worth it.

Sea perch Ravioli                                                   Grilled fish with zucchini

                                                                                                                                             

A really delicious fettucine of prawns and raddichio- doesn't look great on photo, but the taste was spot on!

Seafood frite                                                                                  Veal saltimbucca


Luckily for this restaurant, a great way to end a good trip.

Jo Jo's  most memorable and enjoyable moments (not in order) were:

Eating gelati everyday.
Trying black truffles- you only live once, so you should try it even if you don't like mushrooms.
Eaing all the yummy pastas in Venice and Perugia.
The vision of Tuscany hills and the seas of sunflowers in bloom.
Piazza Michelangelo in Florence.
Staying at a B&B- something different to just another hotel room.
The fresh spring water in Rome.

Signing off with the famous words of Asterix and Obelix, "These Romans are crazy!"

Hmmm... where are we going next? A short trip to Bordeaux next weekend! Yay...